The Syrian "Cultural Conscious"

Today, in a tutorial lesson on modern Arab literature that I had at the institute, I read and discussed a short story with one of my professors. The story was by Zakaria Tamer, the almost cult-status, self-made Syrian author. It was a great lesson. These are the things that get me excited--learning how people think here (I call it "cultural conscious")--through conversations or a novel, or a TV series, of which, by the way, Syria is famous for across the Arab world.

On this note, "Cultural Conscious" is really interesting to me. I guess it can be described as collective knowledge that a person from a particular country/culture shares with others from that culture. Take Americans for example, if you are talking about something and mention, "Lions and tigers and... "  almost any American would finish the sentence with, "and bears oh my!" which is of course from the Wizard of Oz, and is one of our most famous films. So too here in Syria, there are jokes, and old TV ads, and songs, and books, and authors and poets and lines of poetry that are known by all. Last summer I was at an argeelah-coffee shop with friends and they were reciting poetry out loud. I had memorized a few lines from Mutanabbi's "Al-Huma" and started reciting, when one guy, getting really excited, jumped in and finished the rest of the poem by heart. Apparently it was (and is?) required to memorize (along with a great number of other poems) in 9th grade for every Syrian in public school.

After the class I did some clothes-shopping in Abu Romaneh/Shalan, as we are officially in the midst of "sale-season" here in Syria. I still feel a bit intimidated shopping here alone--I know that after I say just a few words to the shop keeper, it will become clear that I'm not Syrian. Which then leads to, "You're not Syrian are you?" And I try to joke saying "no is it that obvious?!" Which makes me feel self-conscious. However, I was pleased today when I entered a shop and asked to look at their "pajamas" (which, interestingly, means here, sweats or sporty clothes) and after listening the sales girl said, "Oh! I thought you were a foreigner at first!" To which I smiled and said "I am."

I'm off to study. And then, hopefully-- if I can escape the temptation of sitting up and chatting with the girls--off to an early night's sleep.

4th Arabic Novel Finished!

Last night I finished my fourth Arabic novel, الشمس في يوم غائم (The Sun on a Cloudy Day) by Hana Meena, one of the most famous Syrian authors. I determined to finish the book last night, which has taken me about 4 months to get through (it's not the most thrilling book...) so I stayed up reading, as fast as I could and finished right at midnight. An "Al Maza" Lebanese beer kept me company as did my little heater. I've made a goal for myself to try and read as many novels/factual books as I can these next few months while I'm here. One of my professors at the institute where I study, told me that if I didn't read at least 20 books while I'm Syria, I would be wasting my time. I would be thrilled if I can read half that, on top of all the other studying I have. I see his point however--that reading tremendously improves language, grammar, word-acquisition, and all manner of things. And that by reading a whole book, you'll see words repeated over and over and can guess most from context, or at least get the main ideas of the story, which is what I aim for. So...there you have it...novel #4...and more to come!

Haifa and The Suitor

Last night I went over to a friend's flat to visit her. There was another reason behind her invitation, which I soon discovered. She had a potential "Groom" coming to visit, and as she lives alone and it would be improper for her to have a guy over alone at the house, and particularly not a potential groom who was sent by respectable people to meet her, she invited me over as a sort of chaperon for the event. It was very interesting. I think this is the first time I've been part of a "planned suitor event" (what do you call this?!). She was a great hostess. Tea, cookies, and the final Arabic coffee. Our young suitor (though not that young) was dressed up nicely: gelled-back hair, strong cologne, shiny, pointy shoes. And he seemed interested in my friend. Which got me thinking about what a man looks for in a wife. If she's pretty, and seems pleasant, maybe that suffices? In many cases?

Communal Living and "Adventuresome" American Girls

It occurred to me today as I awkwardly complimented my housemate Hiyam on her huge new fake-leather belt, that living with people you don't know, probably would not be friends with under other circumstances, and don't connect with-- that all of that is or can be rather good actually. So, yes, there are a couple girls I don't really click with. I don't get them and they don't seem to get me. I feel rather awkward in their presence and am always trying to think of things to say. And once with Hiyam, we got in somewhat of a fight  when she made negative comments about my mopping the house--after she had skipped out of her chores for a month. But I think this is good, having to do life with all these varied girls, instead of seeking out only people I connect with. And too, you can be delightfully surprised. I didn't expect it, but one girl in particular, Haneen, and I have become good friends. She recently said to me "I never expected that I would have as a good friend, a foreign girl because I thought that her values and world-view would be far from ours, but you're not like that. And neither is the American girl that lives upstairs." And truthfully, for me too, I didn't expect to meet someone I connected with and enjoyed so much, and who in many ways really gets me.

On this note of expectations of what "foreign" girls are like, another one of my housemates, Bana, said to me a couple months after I had moved in, that she was surprised at my behavior and told me that I wasn't like most American girls. So I asked what most American girls were like and she answered well, they are adventuresome, they stay out late, and they don't have close relationships with their families. But, she said, you aren't adventuresome (by which she meant promiscuous), you go to bed early, and you talk to your family a lot.

I think this is in many ways is what it actually looks like to "build bridges" and "break stereotypes" and all those other things we talk about. I'm always watching them...seeing how they make coffee, what they cook, what they wear, what they talk about, how they act together. And I know they are watching me in all this too...and giving their quite vocal feedback! "What are you doing? Is that how you make rice?" "This is how you should be cleaning the floors" and "Ah, much better, you should always wear skinny jeans it's better than what you've been wearing." !!

Serious Fashion

Wow. Syrian girls (or at least the ones I live with) are really into fashion. I just finished watching one of my roommates get dressed to go out to dinner with her boyfriend and his friends. Hair extensions, high, high black heels, tight jeans and all manner of other accoutrement! By the time she walked out the door she looked amazing. I think in comparison American girls dress more simply. Like tonight, I ran out the door to church and did my best at looking like a Syrian girl: High-heeled black boots, tight jeans, big, flashy earrings...but I am still all too easily spotted as a foreigner...